On the 8th day of our road trip around Iceland, we decided to drive around Lagarfljót. It was our second day trip out of three from our base in Egilsstaðir. During the summer, this area usually has the best weather in Iceland, and that was definitely our experience. The area around Lagarfljót has so much to offer, and we only had time to see a small part of it. There are forests and waterfalls, cultural and historical sites, and amazing restaurants. So we were really excited to start exploring.
Lagarfljót
Lagarfljót is a broad glacial river that flows through Fljótsdalur District. The Ring Road crosses Lagarfljót by Egilsstaðir with a 301 meter long bridge. When this bridge was built in 1958, and until 1973, it was the longest bridge in Iceland. The towns Egilsstaðir and Fellabær are located by Lagarfljót, as well as Iceland’s largest forest, Hallormsstaðaskógur.
According to Icelandic folklore, the lake monster Lagarfljótsormurinn (“Lagarfljót Worm“) lives in Lagarfljót. The monster in Lagarfljót could be described as an Icelandic version of The Loch Ness Monster. It was said to appear variously as humps or arches, lifting its huge form into the sky, sometimes blowing out blue smoke. The oldest recorded sightings of the Lagarfljót Worm are from 1345. With time, sightings became more frequent. Such appearances were generally considered to bode misfortune. In 2012, a farmer by Lagarfjót managed to film some kind of creature in the water. The video gained international attention, you can click here to see it! In the Tourist Information Centre in Egilsstaðir, you can get a free map which shows where the Lagarfljót Worm has been seen, in case you want to try your luck at finding it (or tempt fate, depends on how you look at it).
Monument to the Western-Icelanders
We decided to start on the west side of Lagarfljót and drive the east side on the way back. We took road #931 and soon we reached our first stop of the day, the Monument to the Western-Icelanders from Fljótsdalur District. Western-Icelander (Vestur-Íslendingur) is what Icelanders call the people who migrated from Iceland, mostly to Canada but also to the United States, in hopes of a better life. In 1870 – 1914, approximately 15.000 Icelanders migrated west across the ocean. It may not sound like a lot of people, but at the time, it was approximately 20% of the Icelandic nation! The reasons for the migration were mostly the harsh living conditions in Iceland, in part caused by the 1875 volcanic eruption in Askja.
The monument was made in 1974, on the 1100 year anniversary of the settlement of Iceland. The inscription on the monument is in Icelandic, but loosely translated goes something like this:
“From around 1875 and in the first years of this century, a large number of people from the Fljótsdalur District migrated west across the ocean to Canada and the United States. These Western-Icelanders always cultivated the Icelandic language and the ancient culture of their homeland in their new home in the other side of the ocean. We hereby remember these people and their descendants with the utmost respect.”
– Monument to the Western-Icelanders in Fljótsdalur District.
Parthús
Not far from the Memorial to the Western-Icelanders are the ruins of Parthús. Parthús used to be a shepherds’ hut, and is known for being violently haunted.
The story goes, that a man called Jón lived on a farm nearby called Arnheiðarstaðir. One winter night, during a blizzard, a young woman came to the farm and asked to for shelter. The farmer denied her request, stating that he didn’t make it a habit to house nomads. The young woman left, and the next morning she was found frozen to death in the shepherds’ hut.
Some time later, the same winter, Jón and another man were on their way back to the farm when they got caught in a blizzard. They realized they wouldn’t make it to the farm. So they decided to seek refuge in the shepherds’ hut for the night. Jón tells his companion he has a bad feeling about this. Jón warns his companion, that whatever may happen during the night, he must not move. Then they go to sleep, and soon Jón’s companion starts hearing horrible noises, like something is being torn apart and thrown around. He does as Jón told him, and stays put, but as soon as the sun rises the next day, he runs to the farm and tells his story.
When he returned to the shepherds’ hut with people from the farm, they found bits and pieces of Jón all over the hut. He had literally been torn to pieces by a ghost. The shepherds’ hut has since had the gruesome name Parthús (House of Parts). It was never used after this incident and is now only ruins.
Hengifoss & Litlanesfoss
After a spooky story time at the ruins of Parthús, it was nice go on a small hike. The hike to Hengifoss takes approximately 1 hour one way, and is well worth it. On the way there, you will experience beautiful views of the area, and see the waterfall Litlanesfoss (see below), which is surrounded by basalt columns.
At 128 meters, Hengifoss (see above) is one of the highest waterfalls in Iceland. The top of the waterfall is about 450 meters above sea level and it drops into a beautiful gorge called Hengifossgljúfur. A unique feature of Hengifoss are the red clay rock layers in between layers of basalt in the gorge surrounding the waterfall. These layers are evidence of volcanic eruptions in the Tertiary period, when Iceland was formed.
Skriðuklaustur
The history of Skriðuklaustur goes back centuries. Both a cultural and historic site, Skriðuklaustur used to be the home of writer Gunnar Gunnarsson. Gunnar is the one who had the beautiful stone building made in 1939. But archaeological excavations have unearthed a medieval monastery, close to the house, from the 15th century.
The first thing we did when we arrived at Skriðuklaustur was to visit their café Klausturkaffi. I honestly have to stay, it’s one of the best places to eat in Iceland! I had a delicious waffle with rhubarb jam, birch syrup and whipped cream, very traditional, and all made from local produce. Klausturkaffi also offers lunch buffets and afternoon buffets that look absolutely amazing. And I really would have wanted to try everything on the menu! Luckily they sell a recipe book, so I might try to make some of these treats at home.
Next we went to look at the home of author Gunnar Gunnarsson (1889 – 1975). It’s located on the first floor of the building (the café is on the ground floor). Considered to be one of Iceland’s most important writers, Gunnar was nominated for the Nobel Prize in Literature. He wrote in Danish, and became a one of the most popular novelists in Denmark and Germany at the time. Gunnar donated the land and houses at Skriðuklaustur to the Icelandic nation, on the condition that it would be used for cultural purposes.
Since we were the only guests there, we got a private tour of the author’s home, where we learned about his life and work. We also got a private tour of the exhibition about the medieval monastery, and we got to spend ages experimenting with the VR-glasses, which allow you to step into a 3D world depicting Skriðuklaustur in the 15th century. The virtual reality is so lifelike, you can walk around the land and inside the buildings, and it really feels like you’re there!
The ruins of the medieval monastery at Skriðuklaustur were excavated in 2002 – 2012. The Augustinian monastery was founded in 1493, and was the last catholic monastery to be founded during the Catholic period in Iceland. This monastery is the only one in Iceland, and the most northern one in Europe, to have been completely excavated. One thing the guide told us that I found really interesting is that the monks were very compassionate and didn’t discriminate. They were dedicated to helping everyone, no matter what their religion or social status. The monastery was a refuge and a place of peace, where everyone was welcome.
Our visit to Skriðuklaustur was so much longer than we’d expected because we had so much fun there! After Skriðuklaustur, we stopped by Snæfellsstofa, one of the Vatnajökull National Park Visitor Centres. It’s somewhat new and I’d never been there before. The Visitor Centre is a great place to stop by for information, or just to get inspired by what the area has to offer.
The Wilderness Centre
The Wilderness Centre (Óbyggðasetur Íslands) is a truly inspiring place at the eastern edge of the highlands. At The Wilderness Centre, you can experience the beautiful solitude of the uninhabitable part of Iceland. We thought The Wilderness Centre might be closed, due to the pandemic. But luckily it wasn’t and we were able to see their exhibition. The exhibition is absolutely amazing and tells the stories of the dramatic struggle between the forces of nature and the Icelanders’ fight to survive. It features many of Iceland’s most famous folktales, set in the highlands, such as stories of outlaws and ghosts.
The Wilderness Centre also offers accommodation and board in an old farmhouse, guided tours and access to hot springs, although none of this was available when we visited, due to the pandemic. But this place is really something else, and I will definitely go back there as soon as possible.
Valþjófsstaður
Valþjófsstaður is an ancient manor farm and a church, probably most famous for its medieval carved church door. The carvings on the door depict scenes from The Knight and The Lion, as well as Norse Mythology and runes. The church door was located at Valþjófsstaður from approximately 1200 until 1852, and is one of Iceland’s most valued antiques. By the 19th century, the door was in a bad shape, so it was sent to Denmark for preservation. In 1930, on the 1000-year anniversary of the establishment of Alþingi (the parliament of Iceland), Denmark returned the door to the Icelandic nation. The original door is now safely displayed at The National Museum of Iceland in Reykjavík. But there is an exact replica at Valþjófsstaður.
Kárahnjúkar Hydropower Plant
Kárahnjúkar Hydropower Plant (officially called Fljótsdalur Power Station) was built from 2002 – 2007. It is the biggest and most controversial power plant in Icelandic history. The power plant produces electricity for the Alcoa Aluminium Plant in Reyðarfjörður (which we saw on Day 6 of our roadtrip).
The area of Kárahnjúkar Hydropower Plant is within the second largest formerly unspoiled wilderness in Europe. It covers about 1,000 square kilometres (390 sq mi) in total and the rivers that supply water to the project are part of Europe’s largest glacier.
I remember the debate about Kárahnjúkar Hydropower Plant very well. I was quite young, but it was the first time I really experienced the conflict between environmentalism and capitalism in Iceland. Being the nature child that I am, of course I sided with the environmentalists, and attended meetings and protests demanding the protection of the unique nature of the Kárahnjúkar highlands. But it was all for nothing, and eventually nature was sacrificed for money.
When the cornerstone was laid to Kárahnjúkar Hydropower Plant, a lead cylinder (time capsule) containing data about the power plant was placed inside its wall. Inside the lead cylinder is a map of the power plant and key information about the power plant itself, its contractors and the government officials who allowed the power plant to happen. The cylinder also contains documents from the opposition of the power plant, which includes The National Planning Agency’s ruling (which was against the power plant), and a text from the environmentalists in Iceland, which loosely translates as follows:
“This cornerstone is laid to a building that belongs to the most catastrophic man-made natural disaster in this country. The land to be sunk under the lagoon is both diverse and rare nationally and globally. There are unique geological formations, waterfalls and rapids, there are homes of reindeer, geese, falcons and more bird species. Berries grow there by Tröllafoss waterfall, and the confluence of Jökla river is framed by basalt columns. This was an untouched area until it was decided to sink it for an American aluminium company that uses more electricity than the entire nation of Iceland. Authorities systematically prevented the damage from being made public, thereby preventing an informed decision. Thousands of Icelanders tried to oppose the project and expressed their views in words and deeds. The project is only part of an old goal aimed at making Iceland the largest aluminium smelter in the world. If we have not succeeded in preventing this goal, we would like to apologize to our descendants.”
-Association for the Protection of the Highlands of East Iceland, The East Iceland Nature Conservation Association, Iceland Nature Conservation Association, The West Iceland Nature Conservation Assocation, The South Iceland Nature Conservation Association, The Association for Nature Conservation in North Iceland, The Nature Watch Society and Saving Iceland.
Fljótsdalsheiði
On our way to and from Kárahnjúkar, we drove through the highland area of Fljótsdalsheiði Heath. Flótsdalsheiði is the home of reindeer and many species of birds. We didn’t see any reindeer there this time, but we saw plenty of birds. It’s an amazing experience to be in these vast wilderness, seeing nothing but untouched nature, as far as the eye can see.
Fljótsdalsheiði is one of the main locations of Hrafnkel’s Saga. Hrafnkel’s Saga is one of the Sagas of the Icelanders and is mainly set in East Iceland. It takes place during the 10th century and tells of the struggles among chieftains and farmers. The main character is Hrafnkel Freysgoði (“priest of the god Freyr“). He was a powerful chieftain who owned the farm Aðalból in Hrafnkelsdalur Valley. The main scenes in Hrafnkel’s Saga are set in Hrafnkelsdalur, in Fljótsdalsheiði Heath and the Fljótsdalur Valley. Driving around the area, you can see information signs at the sites of important saga events.
It was already late when we got back down from Fljótsdalsheiði Heath. So we decided save our stops on the east side of Lagarfljót for the next day. We just drove straight back to Egilsstaðir to have a late dinner and relax for the rest of the evening.
